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By Brittany Allen
For The Sentinel 

Keep on truckin': Food trucks find home in Goldendale


September 25, 2019

Brittany Allen

MOBILE MEALS: Cassandra Lowrance operates Just Wing It

Convenience seems to be the name of the game in several industries nowadays. Eateries are not immune-hence the growth in popularity of food trucks, even in Goldendale.

With fewer people sacrificing work time to do something as basic as take a lunch break, the quick turnaround of ordering from one of the four carts in town is pretty attractive. The fact that the food also gets good reviews is just the gravy-or perhaps the sauce-on top.

The newer kids on the block in the portable eatery game in town are Just Wing It and the Dirty Cowgirl. Both have made quite the names for themselves, and for both the secret appears to be in the sauces.

A self-proclaimed "not a chef," California native Cassandra Lowrance at Just Wing It got into the food industry to avoid "big corporate America." She knew this from several years of working in that environment. Just Wing It is her first business venture and chance to work for herself.

"There aren't really any jobs here, and I don't want to work for anybody," she explains.

She decided to go mobile rather than brick-and-mortar with her endeavor to avoid the hassle of having overhead. She picked chicken wings because it's what she knew best. At her cart near Broadway and Columbus, she exclusively serves chicken wings and shaved ice on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

"I couldn't do a big menu though because I'm not a chef," Lowrance notes. "Chicken wings were all we ate in Texas, so I sat down at home and made my own sauces. There also weren't any wing places in town, and people can't just go to the store and buy the barbeque or buffalo sauce-it's homemade."

In the three months Lowrance has operated Just Wing It, she says she's received a lot of positive feedback. Though she originally moved to Washington from Texas to be closer to her family, she says the people are why she's stayed.

"The people here are so great," Lowrance notes. "They've been so receptive. They don't care that I'm an out-of-towner. I love this community."

Kory Geddes of the Dirty Cowgirl is also an "out-of-towner," but she didn't have to travel quite as far to open her cart outside Dwinell Country Ales on Broadway.

Geddes previously owned and operated a restaurant in Welches on Mount Hood. She moved to Goldendale in January, lured by the promise of a peaceful life on a well-priced piece of land in the country.

Several factors then pushed her to open the barbeque mobile that is the Dirty Cowgirl. She, similar to Lowrance, didn't want to take on the burden of a brick-and-mortar establishment, so she bought a cart, painted it bright pink, and started serving up barbeque to complement Dwinell's local brews.

"There weren't a whole lot of opportunities here for restaurants, so I decided to do my own thing," she explains. "A food cart is so much more economical. And, it's a win-win working with Dwinell's. We put together a menu that works around beer. It was more what this town needed."

Geddes offers a variety of savory-meets-sweet eats, including barbecue, brisket rotisserie chicken, chicken salad, and multiple homemade sides. Some items are seasonal and rotate in and out.

Kory Geddes has the Dirty Cowgirl. Both are recent arrivals in Goldendale.

The Dirty Cowgirl is open Wednesday and Thursday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Though she's closed on Monday and Tuesday, Geddes said she is "consistent on (her) hours."

"I'm very particular on my hours," she states. "I have hours and I try to stick to that. Nobody in this town does that."

Geddes plans to maintain those hours throughout the winter and hopes to continue to offer "good food and good customer service" to the town she's come to call home.

"I've really enjoyed the people I've met and (being able to) get to know your neighbors," Geddes adds. "Goldendale needed some food."

And that's exactly what she plans to provide.


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